A superior Christmas box – purple stem Sarcococca is a slight improvement on this useful, fragrant, and durable evergreen shrub. Fine white flowers emit a strong sweet fragrance from late December to March. Slow spreading shrub that travels locally by suckers to form patches. To 2′ tall and up to 4′ wide if soil is rich, well drained and summer irrigation is reliable. Tolerates dense dry shade well. Black/red berries can follow the flowers into spring. Cold hardy to 0ºF. May burn in full sun- best with shade or at least protection from reflected heat- like an open north exposure. A member of the boxwood family that gives it high deer resistance. It can be slow to establish without regular irrigation in the first season. Water well and apply mulch. Though tough it pays to treat this shrub well from the beginning. Cut twigs that are blooming can perfume a room in winter. First and second year stems are deeply blushed purple- very pretty in contrast with the deep green simple leaves. Combines well with native ferns and perennials like Vancouveria and Epimedium. Native to S. central china.
Plant Type: Shrub
Shrubs are the backbone of Pacific Northwest Gardens. We’re able to grow an incredible amount from all over the world. Evergreen to deciduous the choices are vast. We focus on mostly (but not all) low water species and many native western species. Shrubs are often much less thirsty than other plants and live for a long time if properly sited. They can sport amazing foliage or showy flowers. From Manzanita to Ceanothus and even Grevilleas nothing makes a garden look more western. Our choice of shrubs is from years of experience growing them in our own gardens.
The best treatment leads to success
Treat all shrubs well when you plant. Dig a large hole and apply ample mulch and water to establish well. Do not let the shrub dry out completely until you are sure it is established and make a point to mulch each shrub. This is particularly important if you are creating a hedge or massing shrubs. Treating them all consistently well is the difference between continuity and chaos.
Pruning shrubs 101
The most daunting thing about growing shrubs is pruning. I try to include information about pruning each individual plant – but there are several rules that I adhere to when I prune a shrub that I am unfamiliar with. First, if you do not know the shrub let it bloom. Take note if it blooms on established wood from the previous season or if it grows and then blooms- an indication that it blooms on new wood. If it blooms on wood from the previous season – or ‘old wood’ then you can prune it directly AFTER blooming is done. That way you have less chance of eliminating bloom for the coming season and if it blooms on new wood you are safe too. Plants that bloom on new wood can be pruned in early spring some examples are Lagerstromia, Abelia, Indigofera. Once you understand this it makes pruning MUCH less intimidating. Make sure that you have very sharp pruners and it hurts nothing to sterilize them first. 1 TBS bleach to a bucket of water and a quick dip. Pruning can introduce disease so this is prudent.
New compact plants preclude pruning
Over the eons and more so lately nursery people have been selecting shrubs for more compact habits as well as vibrant bloom. Take advantage of these slower and smaller growing tendencies in the garden. Choosing the right size plant saves work in the future and eliminates the need to prune at all.
Many shrubs will morph into trees over time
In time many shrubs can pose as small trees and this should always be figured into a design. It is far easier and more natural to let a shrub become arboreal than the tortured look and continual work of making it small. Some shrubs that go on to become trees in time are Osmanthus (many) Phillyrea, Camellias, Manzanita (many). Leptospermum. Many reach tree like proportions in a decade or so. They may have their lower limbs removed to reveal shady planting space beneath and to accentuate the view of the bark which can be quite showy. They may also be trained to single leader to produce compact appropriately sized trees for courtyards and smaller gardens for a more formal appearance.
Topiary- a precise art
Topiary is an art that we dabble in at Xera. More than just torturing plants it is a process that takes a bit of planning and plant choice. It introduces a little discipline to the gardener in the form of regular maintenance and the effects are worth the effort. For the best effects and adaptability we use the tried and true forms of myrtle. They’ve been the subject of topiary for eons and we know why. They take a lot of pruning with no harm. They live long lives in containers are drought adapted and we choose the cold hardiest cultivars. The flowers which are adorable are in perfect scale with the leaves, Topiaries can introduce small amounts of formality in a garden and we love the way this plays in larger wild landscapes.
Rely on our soils own fertility
Shrubs in our climate and soils for the most part do not need fertilizer. In fact, over time I’ve seen more ill effects of overfertilization than I have seen benefits. Most often the plant is not getting enough water and the solution is a layer of mulch and a more consistent irrigation program. Often very drought adapted shrubs will react to added water in a dramatic way- Ceanothus, Grevilleas, Leptospermums, Arctostaphylos are genus’ that respond to water in a big way- in fact they react as if having been fertilized with no improvement to the soil at all and they explode in growth. Therefore, we recommend no supplemental irrigation for these genera when established but if they are slow to take off don’t be afraid to water, Irrigation requirements are in each description as well.
Shrubs- furniture for the garden
We need to shift our definition of shrubs. For too long they’ve been the tortured class of plants. The recent trend of grasses mixes excellently with shrubs but not if they are pruned into submission. Take the time to pick the correct plant for the site and be realistic. Plants grow fast in Oregon.
Climate Adapted Plants for Gardeners in the PNW
Sarcococca orientalis
We think this is the best Sarcococca or Christmas box. A nice little 2′ x 2′ slow growing evergreen shrub with a formal air. In January to March relatively large white petal free flowers emit a sweet perfume. Best in part shade and rich, well drained soil. Light summer water when established. Always looks good. Can turn yellowish in full sun. Long lived trouble free shrub that delights in winter. Mass for a great perfume effect during the coldest days of the year. Moderate deer resistance. Long lived and always good looking. Flowers are large for the genus.
Sarcococca ruscifolia var. chinensis ‘Dragon’s Gate’
Graceful and formal at the same time. This low arching form of winter box is wonderful with uniform thin, deep green pointed foliage on arching stems. In mid-winter to early spring the undersides of the stems are clad in fine powerfully FRAGRANT white flowers at every leaf axil. The fragrance spreads for quite a distance on mild winter days. Following the flowers are berries that turn black and arrive at red. Handsome low shrub to 2′ tall and 3′ wide suckering to form patches with time. Moderately fast growing and easy to establish shrub in the BUXACEAE which means that this boxwood relative is also deer resistant. Excellent performance in part shade to shade but not low dense shade. Massed it performs as a large scale ground cover. Light consistent summer H20 for the best looks. Takes dry conditions in shade once established- especially if you apply mulch liberally. Unlike the species it does not lose leaves in bloom which is an important difference. Finds a home under dark stairwells and foundation plantings. Impressive relatively new selection. China.
Schefflera (Heptapleurum) delavayi
Big bold evergreen shrub that deserves a place in every garden. Tall growing cold hardy shrub with leaves that can be up to 18″ across- all five leaflets. New growth in spring emerges slowly clad in a showy taupe indumentum that clings to the new leaves for quite some time. The ultimate leaf color is deep green with a matte surface. To 12′ tall and branching. Moderately fast growth in rich soil that is well drained with consistent summer moisture- to speed growth. Otherwise established plants are remarkably drought adapted in part shade to shade. Takes full sun but leaves are smaller and the plant grows more slowly. An open north exposure is ideal with cool roots and the tops in the bright sun but not reflected heat. In autumn 3′ long pale yellow flower spikes appear and persist until frost. Excellent, refined shrub that has been perfectly hardy to cold for us for the past decade. Much more heat tolerant than other members of this genus.
Spiraea betulifolia var. lucida
Underused native Spiraea from the western United States and native in Oregon including the immediate Portland area. Low mounding deciduous shrub to 2′ x 3′. This is the locally native form. Often the straight species is for sale- its from Asia and is 4 times the size of ours. Pink buds open to foamy white flat clusters of flowers appear in late spring. In autumn it turns amazingly vivid colors of red/orange/gold and it holds its color for weeks. One of the most drought tolerant of the genus requiring light summer water to very little. Full sun and rich soil. Spreads to form patches. Locally native and plentiful near the Columbia Gorge and throughout the mountains whose diminutive habit means that pruning is seldom necessary. Blooms on wood from the previous season. Long lived and an excellent landscape shrub. Birch Leaf Spiraea or glossy leaved Spiraea. Native in the Portland city limits. Oregon native plant.
Spiraea splendens (densiflora)
Subalpine Rose Spiraea is native to the higher elevations of the the Cascades. Above 4500′ in sunny, moist glens it makes carpets of deep rose pink umbels from low rounded shrubs. To 30″ tall by 4′ wide in garden conditions, Rich soil with regular irrigation. Moderately fast growing to this dimension. The emerging soft green leaves take on hints of blue as they mature. Bloom at low elevation is May-July but in its highest native haunts bloom can be delayed to late summer. Deciduous shrub with wonderful orange/ red fall color if brief. Easy to grow native garden plant with regular irrigation. Established plants can take deep watering every two weeks. Remember that this as with all Spiraeas have little tolerance for drought and they don’t necessarily wilt going straight to crispy (a look not as fixable as wilting). Mulch heavily for the first few seasons. Avoid blasting, reflected heat and and hot dry situations. Wonderful combined with Rhododendrons and Azaleas for similar cultural conditions. In its native haunt it can be found with Pacific Rhododendron, Helenium, Delphiniums and Veratrum. I’ve never seen it afflicted by disease. Watch for aphids, hose those off if they appear. Beautiful in bloom. Very cold hardy. Oregon native plant.
Spiraea thunbergii ‘Fujino Pinky’
This is a charming hardy, deciduous shrub with quite a few fine attributes. In late winter to early spring red flower buds line the arching fine stems and open to white/light pink. The effect is a classic apple blossom scheme. The fine leaves are thin and and a pleasant fresh green in summer. I think its finest hour is autumn when the whole shrub becomes a glowing ball of red/ orange/ pink. The chemical that causes the the pink in the flowers is most evident in the fall color. Tough rounded and then arching shrub of fine texture. Blooms on wood from the previous season, prune directly AFTER blooming if necessary. Size is somewhat dependent on irrigation. To 4′ x 4′ in 5 years in rich to average soil with regular summer water to establish. Then just avoid severe aridity. Long lived, cold hardy plant that is best with a hard pruning every 6 or so years to refresh. Good for wild areas, not deer resistant but admirably adapted to dryness. Excellent performance in the Columbia Gorge and east of the Cascades. Mix with Spiraea betulifolia var. lucida for summer bloom but a simultaneous spectacular long show in fall. Native to Japan.
Spiraea x pyramidata
This is our local form of the Pyramid Spiraea an attractive naturally occurring hybrid between two local species. Spiraea douglasii (dark pink flowered) and Spiraea betulifolia var. lucida (white flowered). Its a larger plant and much more controlled than its parent S. douglasii and it inherits some of the drought adaptation of Birch leaf Spiraea. To 5′ tall and 4′ wide this upright growing shrub produces pyramid shaped inflorescences of the softest pink- intermediate between the two species. This form was found just east of Portland. Full sun and occasional deep soaks in dry summers. Tolerates part shade at the expense of a tidy, upright habit. Blooms on wood from the previous season, prune if needed after flowering. Adaptable to wild areas. Deciduous shrub that turns to tones of yellow and flaming orange in mid autumn. This twiggy shrub would make a great hedgerow plant. Blooms late May to early July. Flowers turn to tan seed heads that persist on the plant. Cold hardy and not difficult to grow. Not bothered by pests or disease. Not fussy about soils adaptable from sand to clay. Oregon native plant.
Symphoricarpos albus
Common snowberry is very widespread in our state and is found in a host of biomes This small, deciduous, suckering shrub begins spring with leaves of the freshest green, so fresh they flutter on the late spring early summer breeze. After several weeks of foliage the small white tinted pink flowers are shaped like small bowls and line the stem at every leaf axil. These morph into plush, plump pure white berries that are quite a bit larger than the relatively insignificant flowers. The berries (drupes) are perched in groups on the stems. Their pure white hue is easy to spot for humans and especially birds.They relish the berries while they are toxic for humans. To 32″ tall forming a dome shaped suckering shrub twice as wide. Water to establish the first season then none in subsequent years. Mulch heavily. The berries last well into winter before becoming animal snacks. The gray thin arching stems create a haze on the forest floor that becomes acid green as leaves appear. Spreads by stolons underground to expand its territory. Its adaptable to both upland quite dry situations as well as vernally wet spots in floodplains and fields. In the Willamette Valley its common associates are with Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir) Quercus garryana ( Oregon White Oak) and Fraxinus latifolia ( Oregon Ash) as an understory component. Its tolerant of dense shade as long as its deciduous to full hot sun, Very well adapted to the driest summers. In summer the acid green leaves change to a dark blue green and are often afflicted by a strain of powdery mildew- my whole life I’ve known this shrub and I’ve never seen powdery mildew cause any permanent damage- mostly its just a poor aesthetic look for late summer to autumn. Fall color is soft yellow and brief. Branches may be carefully cut in berry and will hold them in arrangements for quite a few days. An excellent forage and cover plant for native fauna. A great native shrub for beginners. This is the taller form of the two species that we grow. Native to the Portland city limits. Moderate deer resistance. One of our best shrubs for seasonally dry shade. Oregon native plant.
Symphoricarpos mollis
Creeping snowberry is widespread in western Oregon and indeed throughout the state. Its a low suckering deciduous shrub that can occupy large areas. To 30″ tall spread is indefinite in rich to average soil with regular water for the first year to establish. Mulch is extremely beneficial and will suppress weeds for the first few years which can arrive in the middle of a patch of this spreading plant. Leaves are fresh green in spring turning blue green with the heat of summer. Small pinkish flowers occur in late spring and morph over the summer into plush white squishy berries. They line the bare stems and are showy until birds make off with them or they remain and rot. The berries are toxic for humans. Fall color is light yellow to very little. Common on undisturbed slopes on the edges of the valley and in the eastern foothills of the Coast Range and western Cascades. Snow berry is often afflicted with powdery mildew in the driest parts of summer. No harm will come to the plant. A wonderful habitat plant. Oregon native plant.